Madoka and I checked out early in the morning following breakfast. The Japanese traveler was still there. We weren't sure if he'd be there because he thought he might leave before sunrise, but he ran into a money problem - he was running low and couldn't get any from the bank because of the holiday. We chatted a while longer, but we were cut off when some Burmese students on motorcycles arrived to take us to the ABSDF office.
This is what we were there for. It was overcast and dreary. Once we got to the office, we talked with some of the students there to show our interest and familiarize ourselves with some of the issues. After a couple hours, the truck that was to take us to the refugee camp arrived, and they started loading the truck up with supplies. They covered the supplies with tarp, and I rode on top with a bunch of students heading back to the camp. Madoka was able to ride up front in the pick-up's cabin.Series VI, Roll 8 (Pentax K2, Ilford XP2):
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The experience of driving the four hours to camp was . . . indescribable. Driving out of Mae Sariang was beautiful, even on an overcast day at the beginning of the rainy season. The tropical greens were lush and the scenery was nevertheless interesting; life in the Thai countryside, so different than Bangkok; borderland areas which could have been something else other than Thai, had history's line-drawing in this region taken a different course.
Once we hit the first official Thai checkpoint, we were on mountain roads and that is what was indescribable. Six or seven of us clinging onto the ropes that were holding down the supplies, clinging on for dear life trying not to get thrown off into the mud. This went on for three hours, up and down mountains. At one point my hat got knocked off by a low-hanging branch and one of the Burmese banged on the cabin to signal the driver to stop. He ran off to retrieve my hat, even though it would have been fine with me if we had continued on. It was the Beans hat I got from Amina. The trek was an experience that I could not impart through words.
We were fortunate because even though the rainy season had started, it hadn't rained much and the creek that we had to cross maybe 15 times was still shallow and the truck had no trouble getting through. When we got close to the camp after hours of rattled bones and dusty mountain roads, we got off and walked the rest of the way. The Burmese were well familiar with the area, having made the trip enough times. The walk to the camp wasn't far. We crossed a very impressive footbridge that they had constructed out of bamboo, and walked up a small hill to where the camp was.
Frame 14 (July 23, 1997) - I shot this later, but this is the bridge.
The camp was situated squarely within jungle. Again, not something I can describe in words. I have photographs for that, but even photographs couldn't describe the feeling in being in a place where they shouldn't have been in at all, but were there because of the political turmoil in their country and their ongoing struggle against the military government.
There was a sense of community and purpose there. The refugees were eager to speak with us about Burma and their struggle. I think they felt that every visitor is a line thrown out to the outside world informing it about what is going on. This was a headquarters camp of the ABSDF, so many of the refugees had been students and most of them fled Burma after their participation in the democracy demonstrations that culminated in the military crackdown on August 8, 1988. Hundreds or thousands of students were massacred in a precursor to what would happen in Beijing less than a year later. Burma, being economically insignificant to the U.S., didn't get the media coverage that Beijing did. These students at the headquarters camp were young, intelligent, and knew the value of informing all outsiders of what was happening.
Soon after we got there, we got a tour and went around meeting families and seeing what facilities they've eked out of the jungle. They fed us and there was a "guest hut" with six bamboo platforms in which Madoka and I stayed. Madoka had some business of her own to take care of, sort of a fact-finding mission for her friends, the Kawasaki's, who are deeply involved in the refugee crisis and contribute and influence what goes on. So there were times where I had nothing to do but pace back and forth. It was a miserable situation to be forced into, and many students attested to the hardships they endured when they first left Burma.
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Frame 9 - my records say the rest of these shots were taken on July 23, but I think they were all from July 22, including the one of the bridge. The person in Frame 8 is the same as this person.

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Nine years they've been in the jungle, fighting and sending propaganda about the military government. One day you're a student taking classes, but then a movement starts and you believe in what is being promulgated, so you join the crowds. You support democracy and the feeling is good. You are on the side of righteousness and there is optimism in the prospects of change. Then the military shows up and they shoot at you and you run, and you run and run. You leave the city, your school, your classes, your family. Maybe you travel alone, maybe in a group. You just know you can't go back. The next few weeks you run and hide until you reach the border. Maybe you've heard of where you need to go to get out of the country, maybe there is a network to help you and point the way. You cross the border, you leave your country, your home, you have nothing. The reality sets in. A week ago you were just a student. Where do you go in another country?
After dark, there is little to do in the jungle. Some people have flashlights, but for longer periods of time, people use candles. For entertainment, there are a bunch of guitars floating around. Over the years, they learned songs and played together and picked out parts. That night, a bunch of the refugees came to the guest hut and played for hours, well into the timeless night. They knew some folk songs from the '60's and '70's. Most of the songs were Burmese folk songs, and there were some foreign songs that were translated into Burmese.
It was so very alive. Madoka appreciated it and thought it was wonderful, but...I don't know. There was a tension between us for some reason. It never got out of hand, but it also very rarely went completely away. Part of me wonders if Josephine had anything to do with it, but I have no evidence to support that. There were times that I felt a tiny bit critical of Madoka because she would so single-mindedly concentrate on the work; the plight of the refugees, and finding ways to solve problems. I felt that most during the guitar playing because I felt that she couldn't just relax and enjoy the moment, being surrounded by good people, playing really good music, being really into it, because music isn't helping the Cause.
We had to sleep under mosquito nets. The mosquitoes in the jungle are malarial and extremely aggressive. To me, it would have been unbearable. They made existence miserable and they were the leading factor which made me think ahead to our departure.
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Color archive, Summer 1997, Roll 2